Watermills near Jajce in Bosnia and Herzegovina are off the beaten path. You have to know of their existence to specifically come here. And believe me, it is worth it, because it is one of the most interesting attractions of the area. It is almost impossible not to smile here. The place looks like it was built for dwarves.

I came to the town of Jajce by bus during my last visit, so getting to these beautiful historic water mills was difficult. Well, it’s about a 5km drive from the town centre. That’s why then I focused on the attractions of the town of Jajce. But last time I came with friends by car, so it was a sin not to come, to see the famous mills (called Mlinčići here)

When we get off at the small car park, I immediately have this fascinating sight in front of my eyes. A small pond with tiny houses above it. With water overflowing between them. Looking at it, one wonders if this is some kind of dwarf village, or if one has ended up in Hobbiton and these hedonistic fairyland dwellers are about to appear. Everything here is so micro, but at the same time it all makes sense.

Mills on the Piva River near Jajce

What we are actually looking at is a complex of historic mills. Because the water here flows through a wide overflow between the Little and Great Pliva Lakes. A large mill could have been built here, but it would have required a lot of resources. Therefore, the former builders decided to cooperate with nature. With a system of small canals, they began to distribute water between the small mills. These houses are larger or smaller. But judging from their size, they did not hold more than three millstones for grinding grain. Anyway, you can find out by walking between them. Some of them still have shovels, which moved the querns placed above.

While looking for information on the mills near Jajec, I came across a website which states that in 1562 there were 24 mills, of which 18 were in operation. A hundred years later, their total number had risen to 26. They were obviously used by local peasants, who brought in the grain and collected the flour. Today, two of these small mills are said to be working again. Of course, this is rather for show for tourists, as after all, it is one of the most interesting tourist attractions in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

It is also worth mentioning that in 2011, four mills were set on fire by unknown perpetrators. They almost burnt to the ground, but fortunately they were rebuilt and today they once again delight the eyes of visitors.

A walk between the mills

The whole complex is small, so it takes a few minutes to walk around it. But it is worth climbing the wooden footbridges leading between the ‘houses’. As you walk, you will see that each mill has its own number, and if you are tall enough, you can look inside, because in some, a clearance has been left between the roof and the wall. Then you can see the mill wheels.

When going to the footbridges, it is also certainly worth noting the system of water distribution through the canals. Everything has been thought out so that the power of the flowing water is not wasted.

In the off-season, you can have the place all to yourself and, instead of the din of conversation and the shouts of other tourists, listen to the creaking of the wooden footbridge and the sound of the flowing water.

I can’t explain it either, but those little mills next to Jajce fill you with some kind of optimism. They exude a positive energy, so much so that looking at them, it is impossible not to smile. I must admit that I was sorry to leave.

But before I left, I took another walk to the Plivskie Lake. Autumn was just beginning and the first, for the time being, shy colours of the trees appeared. When autumn comes in full force, these trees, blazing with colour, will look phenomenal, reflected in the calm tone of the lake.

Access to the mills (Mlinčići) near Jajce

As I have already written, from the centre of Jajce to these ‘little houses’ is a little over 5km. That is, quite a walk or literally a moment’s drive by car. Right next to the mills there is a small car park. It is payable (if I remember correctly it is 1KM) in a parking machine.

You will need about half an hour for the tour. And believe me it is simply worth coming here!